High in the Occidental Sierra Madre lies a very special place – The Cabanas Guadalupe Ocoton. This ecolodge is an experiment in ecotourism by the Huichitol indigenous community. Like many indigenous communities they live in remote places. One source stated that the Huichol settled in the remote parts of the Occidental Sierra Madres to avoid contact with the Spaniards which allowed them to thrive as a people and a culture (link here).

Even though the lodge has been in place for nearly 12 years it still does not have power or heated water and food is cooked over open flame. The road that connected their town to Tepic (the capital of the state of Nayarit), was just paved three years ago. It is in the middle of the great pine forests of highland Mexico. The Huichitol are working to preserve their forest, a point the guide Tony wanted to strongly impress upon me.

The tufted jay and the eared quetzal are two species that are both threatened. IUCN redlist identifies the tufted jay (Click Here) as a threatened species with around 10000 in the wild. According to ornithologist Greg Homel: “These birds need a highly specific environment. A place where steep cliffs descend into a ravine in a mixed oak and pine forest at altitude. There are probably less than 5000 of these birds left in the world.” These mountain forests create a good habitat for them. I was unlikely to see them, in fact data suggested I had 0.04% Chance of seeing an eared quetzal and a 0.05% chance of seeing a Tufted Jay. With some patience and luck, I was able to see both. Ultimately time will tell to see how renewed conversation efforts combine with a new road and increased tourism will allow these small populations to survive.

The cabanas are isolated and far from everything. The distance from civilization, and its location high in the mountains and make the night air crisp, quiet, and vast. Only owls can be heard at night.